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Toscana by Nash . . .
A gentle tour of the wonders of Tuscany and Umbria in Frazer Nashes.   It is ploughing time in Lombardia. The flat landscape of the Po valley is scattered with the giant machines that are the today’s tractors, with names like Landini, Kubota and Deutz, groaning with the effort needed to turn the heavy clay. I am surprised, as I thought we had given up ploughing and this grey sod looks dull and lifeless. We are on small agricultural roads on the outskirts of Piacenza, empty

Charles Pither
Oct 319 min read
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Onward to Orta
The race up, and then down, the high passes into Piedmont is a delight. Once again it is a misty start and the air has a chilly bite, but even at departure I can see the sun gilding the peaks of the Jungfrau across the valley; the day is set fair. As we approach the summit blazing silver slants slice the swirling mist over the lake to produce a drama John Martin couldn’t have imagined let alone painted. Once the other side, we drop below the cloud and now the Nash is in its e

Charles Pither
Oct 235 min read
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Treadbare in Piedmont
The early morning air is cold, and low mist blankets the landscape as I set out from Langres in France’s oddly labelled Grande Est. Shadowy features of hills and trees loom out of the murk along the roadside. Despite the cold, there is no wind, the fog almost cloying in its immobility. Blades of wind turbines, static and statuesque slice through the veiled stillness. This one, its vertical blade a Heatherwick spire, the next, all askance, a huge pair of scissors, then three o

Charles Pither
Oct 225 min read
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The cave temples of Maharastra
Extraordinary temples and monasteries carved into rocky cliffs Chiselled from solid basalt, temple 16 at Ellora We are driving on an...

Charles Pither
Mar 205 min read
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Kerrrrala and the extraordinary biryani
A chance lunch stop delivers a memorable meal ‘Ker means coconut, la is land,’ says the ever-pedagogic Ajosh, our driver, ‘so Kerala;...

Charles Pither
Mar 75 min read
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Doubting Thomas
A letter from Cochin The landmark Chinese fishing nets Dear David,  I was fascinated to be reminded – because you and JP have mentioned...

Charles Pither
Mar 37 min read
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Anguish in Argolis
It is our last night in Greece. Our table on the terrace of the hotel has been specially chosen for us by our host Vasiliki to ensure we...

Charles Pither
Sep 26, 20238 min read
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Points failure south of Cambrai
It is 5.30 and although Kent is in my book east, there is not a hint of light in the cool night sky. We ease onto the horrible motorway...

Charles Pither
Sep 21, 20235 min read
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The Incubus
How total is the sleep of a child? Lost to our world but cast adrift in an exclusive dreamland of magic and sometimes terror. The off...

Charles Pither
Sep 13, 20235 min read
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It’s very complicated…
We continue our tour of Cuba, trying to get our heads around how the country works. It is 4½ hours from Havana to the fine old town of...

Charles Pither
Apr 25, 20237 min read
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Letter from Havana
Castro's Cuba crumbles We arrived last night and only now get to see our Casa Particular in daylight. These are private houses which in...

Charles Pither
Apr 14, 20238 min read
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Animists in Arunachal Pradesh
How about this? A rural population of 40,000 that farms its land in an organic sustainable way without recourse to machinery, chemicals...

Charles Pither
Mar 21, 20237 min read
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The Nagas and their lands
We finally make it to Nagaland. After so much time thinking, talking and planning, the home of the Nagas has assumed almost mythic...

Charles Pither
Mar 17, 202311 min read
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The tennis court at Kohima
I have visited several War Graves Commission Cemeteries and on each occasion have left feeling crushed by the burden of the past. Two...

Charles Pither
Mar 11, 20237 min read
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Karaikudi and the Chettiars
Extraordinary mansions in the middle of nowhere. No one has ever heard of Karaikudi or the Chettinar tribes. Even less the Nagarathar as...

Charles Pither
Mar 6, 20237 min read
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Where you from?
Rummaging through a trunk of papers inherited from my Dad, I found a map of India from his time in the 45thCavalry during WW2. Looks like...

Charles Pither
Mar 3, 20235 min read
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Paean to Rajakkad
Tranquility and wonder on a coffee plantation in the Palani Hills of Tamil Nadu. Click the button above to hear the Rajakkad soundscape...

Charles Pither
Feb 25, 20236 min read
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Letter from Pondi . . .
Is it just my generation that puts Pondicherry in the pantheon of romantic Indian cities like Calcutta, Chittagong, Rawlpindi and Madras?...

Charles Pither
Feb 22, 20235 min read
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The Thread
A dance to the music of Vangelis We are in Athens on a warm August night. Carolyn and I are sitting in the Odeon of Herodes Atticus on...

Charles Pither
Sep 21, 20228 min read
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Armenia - a State of mind?
When I was a medical student, I was taught pathology by a lovely considerate man called Pembakian. He was heavy-set and always wore the...

Charles Pither
Nov 26, 202113 min read
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